Making A Dirndl

It took a year (during which I spent most of that time working too much and planning a wedding instead of sewing), but I finally finished the dirndl I started!

Probably a pretty crazy idea since I didn't have much sewing experience, but I'm so glad I did it. I learned a lot about sewing, many new German terms, and I learned a lot about trachten. I look at dirndls in a totally different way now, having sewn one. And I have a lot of respect for how well-constructed my wedding dirndl is!

Oh, and I'm pretty sure I now know then entire inventory of both the Oberpollinger and Karstadt am Bahnhof sewing departments. 

I started last year with a dream, a pattern, and a pile of fabric. (Burda #7443, for anyone who wants to try)

This was the original plan...which of course NEVER quite is reality. I'll be honest, I struggled with the apron fabric. I wanted to sew the dirndl in silk instead of cotton, and it was tough then finding suitable apron fabric. I'd decided to go with this striped orange and green stuff, which would pick up the purple as well. 

The first mishap was the lining (the lighter purple fabric), which apparently I cut out backwards. That was easily remedied, and with new lining (which I liked better), I completed the bodice.  Even assuming you make no mistakes, you have to cut and mark all 14 pieces three different times (outer fabric, lining, and interfacing). Painful!! That definitely was the worst part. 

I also learned an important lesson about not deviating from the pattern. I was a little worried it would be too tight, so I sewed them together with less seam allowance than indicated. Which would have been fine, except that in the end it was a little too big. Taking in the seams normally would be no problem, but it was a bit trickier with trying to make the same alterations to the lining and have everything still fit together!

But the bodice turned out well and the skirt perfectly. And then it sat for months.... at first I was a bit afraid to finish it since I'd gained some extra weight. But then after a successful workout regimen that was no longer an excuse. I had to just face the fact that I was scared to sew the two pieces together!

Due to my bodice adjustments, the seams didn't all line up perfectly, but I'm still pleased with the results of my first effort. Here are the front and back views. 

As soon as I stopped congratulating myself that the dress was not a total disaster, I quickly learned the ugly truth that the real work was still ahead of me. It took a couple weeks of scouring the internet (English and German) to find out how to make the lovely dirndl trim. The biggest difficulty was not knowing what you call the stuff. (It's called box-pleated trim in at least one version). 

But then when I showed Herr J the plan, he correctly pointed out that the apron really didn't go well with the dirndl. And ....back to the drawing board....

After a few more outings to the fabric store, I settled on this purple floral brocade.  Sometimes procrastination pays off. As in when I first moved to Germany, there was no drivers' license reciprocity with Texas. And when I finally got around to applying for my German license 3 1/2 years later, they'd signed a treaty and all I needed was a vision test. This time, one fabric store stocked a very limited range of pre-made trim. It was quite new and even the fabric store ladies had no idea what it was called, thus reassuring me that it wasn't just my stupidity in not knowing what to call this stuff. 

Unfortunately, the trim didn't work out either. I guess I was forcing it, trying to make something match from a very limited number of trims. 

At this point I took a very patient Herr J to the fabric store and got his help. After about an hour of trying different things, I settled on a flat braided silver trim that he suggested. And then bought the necessary trimmings and silver thread. 

The silver metallic thread was a dream - not as easy to sew with as regular thread, but it blended in perfectly and you can't see where the trim is attached. The final step of sewing on the buttons was a bit scary, since any mistakes would be clearly visible.  But, I needed to finish it up before Oktoberfest and had to take the plunge. 

I can't count how many trips I made to various stores to buy more of something, or something different. Or tried to ask for something in a store, only to realize that I have no idea what it's called in English, let alone in German. Even though my apron pattern called for pencil pleating tape and the German instructions called it "stiftelband," twice the store staff didn't know what it was. They did refer me to a specialty sewing store...that was of course closed for holidays for the month of August. I stumbled across it in a department store when buying ribbon for the wedding favors. 

So finally, after a long adventure, I did finish the dirndl. I'd love to make another one, but have more dirndls that I should have already.  The table of trachten fabric does call to me when I pass it in the store. But for now I'm going to concentrate on other projects. Possibly even more crazy than making a dirndl with very little sewing experience...

Celebrities wearing trachten

Winter is ending, festivals are beginning...which means it's time for more trachten! I got to wear mine this weekend for a bachelorette party. Yes, somehow trachten has become typical bachelor(ette) party wear. 

For some fun, here are celebrities in trachten.

Hippodrome has its own web pages to document (mostly German) celebrities that were in the tent. Other sites have dedicated pages to famous ladies in a dirndl.

It wouldn't be a "celebrity" post without at least one Kardashian and one Hilton....

 

And then popular institution Wetten Dass... seems to often have beautiful foreign women on the show in dirndls. First, Katy Perry...

...and Salma Hayek (with Karl Lagerfeld). 

The pages of the celebrity magazines here will often have some of FC Bayern's stars in trachten. Here we have Bastian Schweinsteiger and Thomas Mueller with their partners. 

 

And the ladies' favorite, Mario Gomez at Paulaner Nockherberg

At Oktoberfest last year, Boris Becker opted for trachten on top and jeans on the bottom, while his wife Lilly chose a beautiful dirndl with flowers in bodice. (For those of you not living in Germany, Boris Becker is not just a tennis star from 20 years ago...he's a constant presence in the tabloids and society pages)

Only at the Hofbräuhaus in Vegas do they have Hugh Hefner's girlfriends tapping the keg... Not exactly the authentic type of dirndl, but hey, it is Vegas!

And of course Heidi Klum's Got Milk ad

Trachten goes mainstream

A decado ago, only real locals and diehards wore traditional dress.

Nowdays, trachten is chic and you'll see many young people wearing it - not only at Oktoberfest, but to beergartens, summer festivals, bachelor(ette) parties (polterabend), and FC Bayern games (lederhosen bottoms, no suspenders, and an FC Bayern jersey are the outfit for the cool Bavarian guys).

Even Ken and Barbie are in on the trend!

Vogue Germany ran a ten-page trachten special promotion spread by Munich department store Loden Frey in its magazine, covering more than just the normal dirndl and lederhosen wear (Frau A wants those boots and the red jacket!).

And if a good classic pair of deer-skin lederhosen aren't quite enough for you, there are some designer alternatives...Hugo Boss has lederhosen for the modern brand-conscious man.

"Only" 399 euros for the shorts and 499 euros for the dirndl...Of course you'll also need the shoes, which run almost the same price as the trachten.

Even Tommy Hilfiger has lederhosen, albeit for children.

For the more sporty, but still fashion-conscious man, Adidas offers Bayern Munich lederhosen! 

  

But it doesn't end with lederhosen and dirndls...These days there are trachten accessories - either to personalize your trachten, or to wear as a little bit of kitchy Bavarian fun (instead of the full costume).

Here are some typical acessories, which now also come in fashion versions for big prices.  We'll cover trachten trends in a separate post, but in addition to the standard 3 piece dirndl (dress, blouse, apron), dirndl shoes, dirndl purses, and dirndl jewelry are almost obligatory. That's even before we get into the super trendy hats, stockings, sweaters, and hairstyles!  (these beer mug ballerina flats are cute, but are going to cost you 170 euro! Frau A is thinking "craft project")

     

And what if you want to add some trachten to your casual style? well, luckily there are bathing suits! 

Finally, Austrian store Tu Felix Austria takes trachten-inspired casualwear to a new level, with men's underwear and sports lines (and funny, obviously photoshopped photos of models in the Alps).

  

And some pretty cute onesies to start the little ones off on the right foot!

Dirndl Update

I have been working on the dirndl in sporadic bursts, but it finally is starting to take shape. I think the top is 80% of the work!!

Both layers of the bodice are complete and I've pinned them together.  I need to make a few adjustments but am almost ready to attach the pieces and put on the skirt.  So far, so good...

This weekend we stumbled upon a great trachten outlet just outside of Munich and I picked up a fun trachten hat. 

I hope to make some further progress this week, but have a couple of work trips planned.

Parisian Shoes

Herr J alluded to another one of my surgical shopping strikes. I think I surprised even him with the swiftness and efficiency, but really I just wanted the exact same pair of black ballet flats I've had for 3 years. Minus the 3 years of wear and tear.

So our walking tour of Paris included a quick stop in the Repetto flagship store near the Opera.

It may not be the most well-known attraction or the most glamorous of Parisian shoes (we would have spent HOURS had we visited Christian Louboutin!).  However, it's worth a visit for two reasons:

• to buy the most comfy ballet flats in the world
• if you ever loved ballet

New Bolchoi Flats :)For me, it's more the former.  Trying to walk for hours in heels, especially on European cobblestone walks, is painful and it hurts my poor beautiful shoes.  City life has driven me to need flats. And every pair I've tried just give horrible blisters and tear up my heels. It doesn't matter if they're cheap or really well made; they're just all too rigid, and often have flimsy soles. Sadly I've probably wasted a lot of money on inexpensive "comfortable" shoes that in the end are unwearable.  Thankfully a good friend in Singapore introduced me to Repetto, and I'm hooked on the Bolchoi flats with their super-soft leather and square toes.  Light like ballet shoes (feels like wearing nothing on your feet) but with soles that can deal with walking outside.

For those who have a love of ballet, it's a wonderful little store full of history and tutus and pointe shoes and other beautiful ballet attire.  The reason the shoes are so wonderfully comfortable is in their history.  I know nothing about ballet shoes, but these are supposed to be among the best. Founder Rose Repetto was the mother of famous French choreographer Roland Petit.  After she made shoes for Roland’s use, she eventually opened the store in 1947 at this location near the Opera.  They initially made only real ballet shoes, but the legend is that Brigitte Bardot commissioned the boutique to make her a pair of red ballet flats to wear in And God Made Woman, kicking off the chic Parisian trend. 

Though they remain a premier shoe supplier to ballet companies, Repetto now is part of Reebok.  After major troubles after Rose's death, Reebok purchased the failing business in 1999 and has turned it around (through a bankruptcy and reorganization) into a trendy fashion brand.  Today they’ve expanded beyond flats into other dance-inspired shoes (heels that look like they could tango all night) and even boots and loafers. I doubt I would buy Repetto boots, but I’m curious if the heels are as comfortable as their flats given their dance background. I would LOVE to find heels I could walk in on European streets for hours!

If you're interested, you can watch a video here of the shoes being made.

Repetto
22 Rue de la Paix
Paris
Metro Stop: L'Opera
Open Mon-Sat 9:30-19:30

I'll still keep wearing the old pair until they completely fall apart (especially for long walks), but now can wear flats to work functions without feeling ashamed of my really beat up dingy shoes.

In the interest of full disclosure, I recieve nothing for writing a post about fabulous shoes. Other than that joy that new shoes always bring. Of course, if Repetto (or other Parisian shoemakers... Yes, M. Louboutin, I'm talking to you!) wanted to send me free shoes in exchange for press on our tiny little blog, I could be bought.  Easily!

My New (Woman) Purse

I'm not sure that I really have to specify, but since we've talked a lot about man purses here on Schnitzelbahn, perhaps I do.

While I really enjoy photography and love my camera, I struggle with how to carry it - especially for a long day of sightseeing. For Herr J - with his larger bag, stronger muscles, and smaller camera/lenses - it's not a major issue. He can easily fit his camera and several lenses in his manpurse, with plenty of room to spare. Plus, and let's be honest here...he doesn't care quite as much how it looks with what he's wearing or how it matches his shoes. This could change once he has multiple manpurses...we shall see....

I had a purse or two that were big enough to carry my camera and perhaps one additional lens. But their shoulder straps are always slipping off (especially when wearing a coat) and give me shoulder pain after an hour or two. When hiking or doing a lot of outdoor walking, I can use my wonderful little camera backpack. It's falling apart (the zipper is on its last legs) but it has some padding and the dual straps are much better on the back. Plus, since it's on there securely, I have both hands free.

The problem with the bag, however, is that most museums here prohibit any backpack style bags, no matter the size. While this bag is smaller than my purse or Herr J's, it's apparently the style that is the issue and the museums force you to check it. You can probably take a Birkin bag through, but not a small, flat camera backpack. Annoying and also I usually carried this as a combo purse/camera bag, so wouldn't want to check my wallet and sunglasses and phone as well.

After too many sore shoulders and annoyances, I had to make a change. I had seen a few really cool ones on US websites, including Kelly Moore's bags which look like a stylish purse from the outside, but are structured to protect your gear. However, the truth is that I'd also been looking for an excuse to get either a George, Gina, & Lucy or a Liebeskind bag. I love the hardware on the GG&Ls or the supersoft leather on the Liebeskinds, but I really liked the idea of getting something German and not yet well-known in the US. Occasionally I'll see a paparazzi photo of someone carrying a GG&L in LA, but it's not yet a well-known brand there. I hope it stays that way! Unfortunately I doubt it, especially now that they make leather versions (beautiful but NOT in the same price range!)...

Basically I was looking for the perfect blend of form and function, of style and structure. So, I took Herr J to go purse shopping.

Don't worry guys, this was not the cliché of dragging your man along for hours of painful shopping, asking if he prefers these Navy Blue shoes to those Prussian Blue ones that look indistinguishable to the average male eye. No, this was more of a surgical strike. I had done my recon, selected potential targets, and planned to have dinner afterwards at Augustiner am Dom. Nothing like the prospect of flammkuchen, zwiebelrostbraten, and tasty beer to hurry the process along!

So, our outing was successful and Herr J provided invaluable advice. Really!

Though it is not my typical style, I ended up getting a messenger style bag. I had planned to get something that at minimum had a shoulder strap, though I gravitated to the tote-style bags that had both handles and straps.  Herr J accurately pointed out that (1) this design will better distribute the weight, (2) keep my hands free for taking photos, eating ice cream, holding a beer, or all of the above, and (3) the construction and fasteners used on the messenger bag are much sturdier and can handle the weight and wear & tear that will come from carrying around a D700 and a couple of lenses (Here threre's room to spare after a D700 with 24-70mm attached, plus 70-300mm and 100mm macro).

It also needed to have a secure zip closure, in case I'm somewhere that pickpockets are an issue.

I chose the blue, so that it would work for all seasons and with black or brown. That's the girly part of things... In the past few years, I find myself gravitating towards red or blue bags, since they are much more versatile with shoes and coats. Now that I have to think about wearing coats much of the year.

How has it worked?

This bag has surpassed all my expectations. In my travels for work, it has turned out to be a perfect laptop bag as well! That was a big surprise, and a huge help when I have travels or a lot of walking. Not the most formal bag, however, so I have my eye out for something sturdy but a bit dressier (I'm thinking red this time, probably leather). 

Sightseeing in Stuttgart

Fünf Höfe Photo Fun

On the way home from a Sunday photowalk through the English Garden, Herr J and I cut through the Fünf Höfe, one of Central Munich's shopping centers.  I've always liked the architecture there, particularly the modern and airy passages in the middle of a historic city block. But we were shocked to realize what fun photo opportunities were in there. All of the textures and reflections were great fun for playing around with HDR photography. 

 

"Fünf Höfe" means "Five Courtyards" in German, an appropriate name for the building spanning a block with passages full of cafes, restaurants, and shops.  And, as a typical German real estate asset, it has offices and apartments on the upper floors. Sitting between the Frauenkirche and Odeonsplatz, the building has an important history as the home of HypoVereinsbank, one of Munich's oldest banks (its roots trace back to the late 1700s). As is often the case here, they sought to keep the historical facade of the building while building something modern and new inside.  According to the center's website, the design was inspired by the courtyards of the nearby Residenz palace.  I often take a shortcut through there as a nice change of pace - it's usually peaceful and with comfortable "weather" inside.

It's quite a nice place to spend a rainy, wintry Sunday afternoon, visiting the Hypo Kunsthalle art museum, followed by coffee in one of the cafes or lunch at Vapiano (reliably good and open late and on Sunday).  During the week, you can shop at a variety of clothing, home, and art stores, as well as Munich's Muji. (Muji is a Japanese home/small good store that's worth a browse, if you've never been in one.  Their focus is on no-brand, minimalist products, usually made of recyclable materials. But they have a great blend of form and function, so that you'll have a really hard time walking out without finding several things you "need"). 

The museum entrance is on the Theatinerstraße side and, though small for a museum, often has good exhibits. There have been a wide variety of themes, artists, and time periods, with the exhibit changing every few months. The Mark Rothko retrospective a couple of years ago was particularly good.  As it's an exhibition gallery rather than one with a permanent collection, you'll need to check periodically to see what's there.

In addition to the open entrances to the passages, there are other areas with open roofs, blurring the boundaries between indoors and outdoors.  

As the complex houses the small museum that Hypovereinsbank sponsors, they also integrated art into the architecture. The hanging gardens through the Salvatorpassage actually are a living installation by Düsseldorf artist Tita Giese.

They blend in so well that they almost escape notice, but you'll also find 12 laser-printed panels throughout the building. These are prints of photos by German photographer Thomas Ruff, meant "give onlookers the impression that they are floating over cityscapes and the countryside." These scenes are of nature, the Munich area in which the Fünf Höfe sits, and Manhattan streets.  You'll see one on the floor in the picture below (bottom right corner).

And the most noticeable art piece hangs in the Viscardihof - a giant steel lattice-work sphere by Olafur Eliasson, an Icelandic artist. The shape and structure is supposed to represent "global openness and worldwide networks."

 

source - Fünf Höfe website